Rim to Rim to Rim: A Day in the Canyon

 4/17/2022

 

We started down the South Kaibab (SK) trail at 3:06am. I immediately had to pee (nerves and pre-hydrating!). Hmm, three steps in and already having to stop?  It was crazy seeing the full moon and all those stars. What a treat! While I was sad to miss the sunrise on SK, running under a full moon in the canyon was special! Who gets to run the canyon under a full moon? I was already counting my blessings, as there were many just to arrive to this point.

 

Ashley & I at the start of our journey. 

Image taken with night sight and a full moon.

We took it easy on the downhill as there were many steep, exposed miles and I was glad to do them under the cover of darkness. We had looked down on the trail from Mather Point the day before and I was rethinking the decision, first of many times, of descending such a trail.  We reached the bridge and celebrated the first milestone: made it to the Colorado River at first light! We were both feeling good, still nervous, but excited!  

 

Crossing the black bridge at 5:36am

 

 

Next up: Phantom Ranch. The mules were just coming out of the corral and it was cool to see. They were much larger than I had expected. 

When we got to the water stop folks were milling around who were staying there. Everyone was nice and some very chatty. We wanted to refill our water bottles and start running, as we wanted to make the most of the cool morning air. Off we went and into the next phase of our journey to the North Rim.

 I know everyone says that pictures do not do the canyon justice. They are correct.  There is no way to capture the vivid colors and subtle dessert tones of the walls as the sun moves further up the sky. In addition, the water that we ran beside for miles created these lush, green oases. The contrast was magical. The trail was rolling and I was in awe. We ran through the box, maximizing the shade. At 8:01am, the sun became present on the floor of the canyon. We danced in and out but that became less and less.

Our next stop was Manzanita. Refill ALL the water bottles and get moving! The landscape again, was out of a dream. Waterfalls and greenery. It was so beautiful and we kept pinching ourselves to remind ourselves this was our day. We were the lucky ones to be here and give thanks for strong bodies and minds to get us here and carry us through.

Roaring Springs

 

We were both eating and drinking well. It was starting to get warm but not too awful, as we had not yet reached full-sustained sun.

 

The last four miles up from Manzanita to the North Rim were brutal. I started not feeling well and knew I needed some salt tabs so I took two. I was using my sip, sip, nibble, nibble mode of attack to stay fueled and hydrated but my stomach, for the first time, was not pleased with the heat. I developed a wicked cramp in my hamstring and really started to question my life choices at that moment. I think the last four miles of the climb took us an hour and half. I saw a small pile of snow and you would have thought I found gold. I filled my bra, my hat and just stood in sweet relief for a moment before continuing the climb from hell.

 

Sweet relief if even for a moment!

Once we made it to the North Rim, I took off my pack and went straight for the snowbank. I laid down and immediately felt like 1 million dollars! I got my cooling sleeves out, began to fill them with snow, and just sat letting my butt/legs enjoy the cold before returning to the inferno.

 

My InReach was buzzing so I checked my messages of encouragement before seeing if I had cell service. I did! I called my partner, John E to say I was halfway, had a struggle but was doing much, much better. After a few minutes of eating/drinking chatting with our new friend Jake, and debating my life choices we got a move on.

 

Again, the pace was very casual because we needed our legs to get us out of the canyon! So, easy on the steeps and cruise the rest of the way. The North Rim is so different in its feel and presence. I felt at home.

 

Coconino Overlook heading back

We cruised into Manzanita and filled all the bottles, rewet the cooling sleeves, etc and went on our way. We were rolling going just fine and then...THE BOX.

 

According to my watch, the temperatures on our journey topped out at 102. I am from Boulder, CO and my running partner from Boone, NC. Heat is our kryptonite. I had already had an issue with heat so now it was my partners turn. It zapped her like an electric fly swatter. We tried to run and it was just a one foot in front of the other to keep moving for a bit.

 

We were both eating, drinking, I was popping salt tabs every 30 mins and we were getting in the water where we could to wet things down. While it was beautiful, it was daunting. I just felt like the canyon wanted to kill us. Nothing personal, it’s just not the friendliest of places at certain times of day. The entire run I had been sharing gratitude: the views, the water, the breeze, in the hopes that this feeling of oppressive heat would not feel like this.

 

Phantom Ranch is a phantom when you want to see it so badly upon your return trip! It seemed like those six miles took forever. We made it! I bought the lemonade, because that is what you do, right?  I had a few sips and knew that was plenty.  We refilled the bottles, mixed electrolyte drinks, and off we went. This was it…the last climb. However, which one would we take?

 

We originally were going to take SK back but after much debate decided that taking Bright Angel (BA) would be the smart decision. The descent down SK had been rough and for me, I thought that the climb up would be even worse so BA we took. We had given each other a pep talk and ready to go. There was something exciting about seeing a new trail and it is the more popular climb at two miles longer and almost the same vertical gain. Only 9.5 miles to go!

 

By this point, I was feeling great and had my "the end is near" energy boost. We ran when it was shady and walked when in the sun and then...

A CREEK CROSSING! What? Who knew this was here? I did not. I was so happy I simply walked in and sat down in the water. It was the best surprise. Not only was there this one creek crossing but several more along BA. I had no idea! Remember, I had only looked at returning via SK.

 

HEAVEN!

For me, this climb was right up my alley. I honestly loved it. I would stop, turn around, get emotional and then continue. When we got to Indian Garden, I felt a bit defeated as there were still 4.5 miles and I had it in my head that there were about four left. We did not stop for water here because we had enough to get to the top and the bugs were so bad in this section, honestly. I put my head down and just cranked up the pace. I wanted to be finished…now.

 

Much of the trail is beside a creek that is flowing to the canyon floor to meet up with the Colorado River.  It was soothing and created beautiful surprise waterfalls and green frog-filled basins. It was lovely and magical. Even more magical was reaching the three and 1.5-mile rest houses! Here we began passing many day hikers.

 

One last photo in the canyon.

Dusk was coming and I was determined not to stop for any reason even to get a headlamp. We did not really need one as the BA trail is so much nicer (less technical) than SK and I just trusted my feet. There was a tunnel up ahead, ugh, more bats and then, up ahead I could see a building with a light. I knew we were at the top. My breathing became heavy as I was fighting tears. I started to run; I wanted to finish strong. I ran to the sign and tapped out of the canyon. 7:36pm

 

Then it hit me.

 

Mission accomplished, challenge met. I had overcome and rallied. I had asked for help from my partner and leaned into her strength when needed. I had practiced gratitude throughout the day and celebrated each milestone we passed on the way out and back. I felt I had given all I had to this journey and gotten so much more in return. A life changing experience for me that will take some time to digest, I suspect.

 

Then the tears. I folded over the railing. Exhausted. Emotionally, physically. Relieved.

 

I cannot thank @ashley.goodman for asking me if I wanted to take on this challenge with her. It had been a decade since we last ran together and it seems like we never stopped. Her fortitude and grit helped me when I needed it most. As did her laughing and song lyrics! Thanks to Gavin, my coach @peaktopeakendurance for making sure I am prepared for my adventures and always being the calm one. To my partner, John E for supporting my adventures and letting me spread my wings. To my @Trail_Sisters_Boulder and larger @TrailSisters community for their unwavering support and miles of smiles that we share each week that I carry on every adventure. To @lady_ak47_ and Miss November as this would not have been the same without you!

 

Stats according to my Garmin:

Moving time: 15:22

Total time: 16:30

Distance: 46.17 miles

Elevation Change: 22,681

Starting Temp: 32

Highest Temp: 102

#hydrapak
#doepicshit
#radboulder
#smartwool
#lasportiva
#salomonrunning

 

 

 

 

 

I wanted to share a few pictures from the past few weeks. I am discovering a theme in 2021: 

GET UP AND GO! 

Go where you are happy; go where you can breathe; go where you feel free.

 

 

There are several common threads going through each of these photos that I find soothing for myself. 

I am moving towards a goal (the top of ridge, mountain, climb); a new day is beginning; 

and I am looking towards the future.

What are you sights set on? Something good I am certain!

Is this thing on? How many resets do we get? No limit you say - AWESOME!

So, today was a slog in every sense. 

• Work was intense
• I didn't want to run but I went and glad I did
• I did a big grocery shop - ICK
• Now a neighborhood meeting - yippee (said no one ever)
  

Tomorrow is a new day and a rest day from running. Instead I get to go and climb a mountain on my skis. I.CANNOT.WAIT! 

More tomorrow and pictures! 

Six years is a long enough vacation from my blog!

Has it really been six years since I made a post?? Oh my, that needs to change!

A lot has changed over the last six years. Here is the very short version:  more running/adventures/races, more injuries, more surgery, new job, adopting two rescue dogs and falling in love with a wonderful man and his two kids!  I am sure you will hear more about all of those changes at some point. For now, just know that I will be posting with more frequency (not too hard to do!) about my adventures.

Happy Trails!
VTG

No limits

Quad Rock 50 Race Report – My first 50 mile race!

First, I cannot thank you all for your kind, supportive words before the race and the congratulations post race. One of the last things I did before getting out of the car on race day was read the messages you all had sent so that they were fresh in my mind. You were with me every step of the way and in some cases were the only reason I kept moving at certain points.

Beth Frye, Sheryl Mawn and I arrived at the start and it was “no turning back now”.  Pick up number-check, label drop bags-check, bathroom AGAIN-check, get vest on-check, good luck hugs-check and line-up. Nick Clark gave the last few instructions/course changes and the countdown began.  As the sun was coming up over the Horsetooth Reservoir (5:35am), we were off. It was bit cool starting but I knew that would not last long as the skies were clear.  The first few miles went along the dirt road as Lory State Park had experienced a recent fire and the course had to be rerouted.

My goal for the day was to make every cutoff and finish the race.  I had run the entire course and knew the climbs would be difficult but as long as I kept moving forward, Rick Gray has ingrained this in me, I should be fine.  I stopped at the Horsetooth TH aid station, mile 10.6) to top off my water and grab 2 Gu’s so that I would not have to restock until the turn around. 

On the climb out of Horsetooth TH, Marianna was beside me and it was so nice to have someone to climb and chat with.  This area of the course, 3.8 miles, for me, is a lot of fast hiking sprinkled with running.  The views are beautiful and I did make sure to look around as I could but not much.  As I got close to Towers Road I came up on Henry and was so happy to see someone else I knew.  We chatted for a bit, ran a few steps and then he was kind enough to snap a picture of me as I had elected to not run with a camera.  This has gotten me into time trouble in the past and it wasn’t going to happen today!  I ran through the Towers Aid Station as a fun downhill was just a few 100 feet away.  I loved running down Mill Creek (not thinking about having to climb back up in a few hours)!

I was through Arthur’s TH (17.8 miles into the race), we will see this aid station four times during this run, and I knew I had the longest stretch ahead of me to get to the turn around.  By my calculations I should beat the cutoff for the turnaround by about an hour give or take.  The next 7.5 miles were a combination of open trail, covered trail, running and hiking the steep climbs.  I began to see the reservoir and the tents at the turnaround.  This is deceptive because you still have a ridge to get over but I was going to make cutoff number one!

It was during this section that you begin to pass 50 miles who are on their way back.  On the way out, you do not know who is running the 25 or 50 so you have to be careful and make sure you are running YOUR race and not get into trouble (thank you Beth Frye for these nuggets). I could finally see the turnaround as I was descending the switchbacks and then WOOHOO, there was Beth, looking so strong and smiling!  I ran right into her for a quick bear hug.  We exchanged the “How are you feeling” but again, I wasn’t stopping and certainly didn’t want to mess up her rhythm.  She told me I was close and looking good. Trail love is the best love! 

Next up was seeing Sheryl.  She looked so strong and I remember being jealous about how fresh she looked.  I almost didn’t see her as I was concentrating on how I was going to get in and out of the turnaround as fast as possible.  You see, this is also the finish line for the 25 mile race. As a 50 miler, you can drop at this point and receive an official time for the 25 mile race.  I wanted to avoid any temptation.  I knew when I got in I needed to do the following: get water, food, change shirt and hat and GET OUT!

I got to the turnaround at Soldier Canyon (mile 25+) and saw Mary Boyts as I was coming in.  We high fived it and the next thing I knew she was right there asking what I needed, filling my water, telling me to take my rain jacket (thank you!) and get moving again.  Mary got me out of there in less than 3 mins…THANK YOU Mary!  I had made the cutoff by 30 mins.  As I was walking out of the turnaround, Nick Clark, RD, asked how it was going and I told him the course was great and I was so pleased this was my first 50 mile race.  He told me “you picked a doozie”, shared some words of encouragement and that he would see me at the finish.  This was just enough to get me running rather than walking out of Soldier Canyon. I passed Marianna as she was coming in and looking good. 

The next cutoff was at 2:10 at Arthur’s TH (mile 32.6).  This was going to be tight and I kept telling myself to keep moving.  I made it to Arthur’s TH with 45 mins to spare.  You might be thinking this is plenty of time, but the climb back up to the Towers Aid Station was going to be brutal. I was good on water and didn’t need to stop so I thanked the volunteers and kept moving.  Are you seeing a theme here: KEEP MOVING, DON’T STOP!  As I left, the 3^rd place male finisher passed me as he was coming into Arthur’s TH.  I just thought impressive and didn’t think about how much further I had to run.

The climb up to Towers was just as I had expected.  It was brutal.  As an added bonus a nice thunderstorm complete with hail rolled in on top of us.  I just kept moving thinking the trees are MUCH taller than I am.  The next cutoff was at Horsetooth TH and that is what I focused on, cutoff times.  I reached Towers and had 1.5 hrs to get to Horsetooth TH.  This might sound like plenty of time to run 3.8 miles but realize I have run 36 miles and my legs were SHOT.  Running downhill was worse than uphill as I had stubbed my big toe on my right foot and the pulsing in my big toe was not getting better.  I ignored this and just kept moving. This section is rolling with some good downhill which I could not capitalize on.  Hmm, how much time do I have?  When I finally reached the South Ridge Trail I thought this is going to be too tight.

Horsetooth TH Aid Station (40 miles down).  A very nice volunteer asked me what I needed as I must have looked lost and confused.  I said I needed my drop bag.  I wanted to leave my vest and get my handheld so that I could move faster, haha, over these last 10 miles.  He got me what I needed and told me not to worry about getting my vest in my bag, he would take care of it.  THANK YOU, THANK YOU.  I wish I knew his name but AWESOME will do.

I was heading back out at 4:03pm…YIKES, the cutoff was 4:30! As I was walking out I saw Shelia, aka: the “nike” runner with whom I had seen all day.  She would kill it up the climbs and I would pass her on the downhills.  She wasn’t looking good and I asked if she was ok.  She got up and we left together.  We would run/walk together all the way to the finish line.  I got ahead of myself there. 

The climbs during this last stretch to Arthur’s TH were just cruel.  This included having to go under or over 3 downed trees on Sawmill Trail.  Finally, the big climbing was over and we were out in the open heading to Arthur’s TH.  Now, one would think this would have been an easy section, WRONG.  It kept going and going and going.  Where was the TH?  Finally, we made it to Arthur’s TH.  There was watermelon cubes here that I thought tasted like Christmas! I topped off my handheld and away we went. 

I checked on the time and realized we had 40 minutes to run that last 2.5 miles.  Again, shouldn’t be a problem, right?  Yikes, we need to run every bit of it we could.  So, we ran the first mile digging deep and talking the whole way.  Then, we crested a hill and I could see the tents.  Time check, we had 30 mins so we knew we were going to make it and just didn’t worry at that point if we walked or ran.  I was able to make out Sheryl’s car and started getting emotional.  She had waited for me to finish. This meant so much to me as she had asked me to consider running the 25 mile race. It was already sold out so we signed up for the 50 miler; logical change in plans right?  She also had a 6:30am flight the next morning to catch!

As we turned onto the road where the cars had been lined up 13 hours earlier, I heard it…”Jeeennnnnyyyyyy!”  At that point I was crying as I knew that voice and knew I was going to finish.  It was Beth, and then I heard Sheryl.  I don’t really remember that last ¼ mile other than that is where I let myself believe that I had done it.  I had run my first 50+ miler.  As I was running into the finish Beth and Sheryl were right there cheering me to the end.  I ran through under the finish banner and straight into Beth’s arms.  I was sobbing at this point. It had been such a long journey and I was just so happy. 

I learned so much in preparing for this race and completing it.  The biggest lesson was to BELIEVE.  Believe in yourself and the process of overcoming. I had a lot of time on the trail (13:33 to be exact) where I could think and listen.  We were not allowed to run with music so instead I listened to my inner self, the words of my supportive friends, my feet hitting the ground, the water running, the birds, hikers having conversations. I will forever cherish this EPIC day and will never take anything for granted.  I have a great life and I cannot wait to live it!



50 mile race had the following entries: 50 woman with 24 finishing; 147 men with 87 finishing

Total Distance: around 52 miles with the course change

Total Elevation Gain: 11,000 ft.  We climbed 3 mountains, turned around and did again in reverse.

Gear: Nathan Vapor Vest, Nathan Quickdraw Handheld, Hoka Mafate 2.0, CEP Compression Socks, Lulumon Athletica Pace Skirt, Free to Be Sportsbra, Mountain Hardware Tank and Shirt

Food: 3 Gu’s, 1 PowerBar Energy Blasts, 1 PowerBar Performance Energy Blends, 1 LaraBar

Aid Station Food: Orange slices & Watermelon, handful of potato chips

Recovery: An Ice Cold Gluten-Free Beer!

    

Season of change

I decided my life seemed too calm so I am mixing it up...A LOT! 

1. I resigned from my current job of 11 years yesterday
2. I accepted a position that will have me traveling each week to a different college/university to help them implement an online degree audit software and
3. I am relocating to Boulder, CO to live near my sister and her family!  Is that enough change in one sentence? 

As you can imagine this has been a roller coaster of a week.  I have opened my eyes each morning and smiled, shed some tears and laughed at loud wondering/thinking how crazy life is.  I live in an amazing place, surrounded by the most amazing, caring people who have loved me for almost all of my life but I realized that something very important was missing...family.  I want, no I NEED my sister and my nieces to be in my life and me in theirs.  We currently only visit once a year for a few days which just isn't enough for me anymore.  I love them dearly and am so excited.  Now, I don't have a move date just yet but the wheels are in motion :-)

So, what does this have to do with running you ask?  Well, I feel like I am jumping into the mecca of trail running destinations...Colorado!  So, if you know of any good folks to meet up with please let me know as we all know some of the best peeps in the world are trail runners!

Happy trails!
VTG