4/17/2022
We started down the South Kaibab (SK) trail at 3:06am. I immediately had to pee (nerves and pre-hydrating!). Hmm, three steps in and already having to stop? It was crazy seeing the full moon and all those stars. What a treat! While I was sad to miss the sunrise on SK, running under a full moon in the canyon was special! Who gets to run the canyon under a full moon? I was already counting my blessings, as there were many just to arrive to this point.
 |
| Image taken with night sight and a full moon. |
We took it easy on the downhill as there were many steep, exposed miles and I was glad to do them under the cover of darkness. We had looked down on the trail from Mather Point the day before and I was rethinking the decision, first of many times, of descending such a trail. We reached the bridge and celebrated the first milestone: made it to the Colorado River at first light! We were both feeling good, still nervous, but excited!
Next up: Phantom Ranch. The mules were just coming out of the corral and it was cool to see. They were much larger than I had expected.
When we got to the water stop folks were milling around who were staying there. Everyone was nice and some very chatty. We wanted to refill our water bottles and start running, as we wanted to make the most of the cool morning air. Off we went and into the next phase of our journey to the North Rim.
I know everyone says that pictures do not do the canyon justice. They are correct. There is no way to capture the vivid colors and subtle dessert tones of the walls as the sun moves further up the sky. In addition, the water that we ran beside for miles created these lush, green oases. The contrast was magical. The trail was rolling and I was in awe. We ran through the box, maximizing the shade. At 8:01am, the sun became present on the floor of the canyon. We danced in and out but that became less and less.
Our next stop was Manzanita. Refill ALL the water bottles and get moving! The landscape again, was out of a dream. Waterfalls and greenery. It was so beautiful and we kept pinching ourselves to remind ourselves this was our day. We were the lucky ones to be here and give thanks for strong bodies and minds to get us here and carry us through.
 |
| Roaring Springs |
We were both eating and drinking well. It was starting to get warm but not too awful, as we had not yet reached full-sustained sun.
The last four miles up from Manzanita to the North Rim were brutal. I started not feeling well and knew I needed some salt tabs so I took two. I was using my sip, sip, nibble, nibble mode of attack to stay fueled and hydrated but my stomach, for the first time, was not pleased with the heat. I developed a wicked cramp in my hamstring and really started to question my life choices at that moment. I think the last four miles of the climb took us an hour and half. I saw a small pile of snow and you would have thought I found gold. I filled my bra, my hat and just stood in sweet relief for a moment before continuing the climb from hell.
 |
| Sweet relief if even for a moment! |
Once we made it to the North Rim, I took off my pack and went straight for the snowbank. I laid down and immediately felt like 1 million dollars! I got my cooling sleeves out, began to fill them with snow, and just sat letting my butt/legs enjoy the cold before returning to the inferno.
My InReach was buzzing so I checked my messages of encouragement before seeing if I had cell service. I did! I called my partner, John E to say I was halfway, had a struggle but was doing much, much better. After a few minutes of eating/drinking chatting with our new friend Jake, and debating my life choices we got a move on.
Again, the pace was very casual because we needed our legs to get us out of the canyon! So, easy on the steeps and cruise the rest of the way. The North Rim is so different in its feel and presence. I felt at home.
 |
| Coconino Overlook heading back |
We cruised into Manzanita and filled all the bottles, rewet the cooling sleeves, etc and went on our way. We were rolling going just fine and then...THE BOX.
According to my watch, the temperatures on our journey topped out at 102. I am from Boulder, CO and my running partner from Boone, NC. Heat is our kryptonite. I had already had an issue with heat so now it was my partners turn. It zapped her like an electric fly swatter. We tried to run and it was just a one foot in front of the other to keep moving for a bit.
We were both eating, drinking, I was popping salt tabs every 30 mins and we were getting in the water where we could to wet things down. While it was beautiful, it was daunting. I just felt like the canyon wanted to kill us. Nothing personal, it’s just not the friendliest of places at certain times of day. The entire run I had been sharing gratitude: the views, the water, the breeze, in the hopes that this feeling of oppressive heat would not feel like this.
Phantom Ranch is a phantom when you want to see it so badly upon your return trip! It seemed like those six miles took forever. We made it! I bought the lemonade, because that is what you do, right? I had a few sips and knew that was plenty. We refilled the bottles, mixed electrolyte drinks, and off we went. This was it…the last climb. However, which one would we take?
We originally were going to take SK back but after much debate decided that taking Bright Angel (BA) would be the smart decision. The descent down SK had been rough and for me, I thought that the climb up would be even worse so BA we took. We had given each other a pep talk and ready to go. There was something exciting about seeing a new trail and it is the more popular climb at two miles longer and almost the same vertical gain. Only 9.5 miles to go!
By this point, I was feeling great and had my "the end is near" energy boost. We ran when it was shady and walked when in the sun and then...
A CREEK CROSSING! What? Who knew this was here? I did not. I was so happy I simply walked in and sat down in the water. It was the best surprise. Not only was there this one creek crossing but several more along BA. I had no idea! Remember, I had only looked at returning via SK.
 |
| HEAVEN! |
For me, this climb was right up my alley. I honestly loved it. I would stop, turn around, get emotional and then continue. When we got to Indian Garden, I felt a bit defeated as there were still 4.5 miles and I had it in my head that there were about four left. We did not stop for water here because we had enough to get to the top and the bugs were so bad in this section, honestly. I put my head down and just cranked up the pace. I wanted to be finished…now.
Much of the trail is beside a creek that is flowing to the canyon floor to meet up with the Colorado River. It was soothing and created beautiful surprise waterfalls and green frog-filled basins. It was lovely and magical. Even more magical was reaching the three and 1.5-mile rest houses! Here we began passing many day hikers.
 |
| One last photo in the canyon. |
Dusk was coming and I was determined not to stop for any reason even to get a headlamp. We did not really need one as the BA trail is so much nicer (less technical) than SK and I just trusted my feet. There was a tunnel up ahead, ugh, more bats and then, up ahead I could see a building with a light. I knew we were at the top. My breathing became heavy as I was fighting tears. I started to run; I wanted to finish strong. I ran to the sign and tapped out of the canyon. 7:36pm
Then it hit me.
Mission accomplished, challenge met. I had overcome and rallied. I had asked for help from my partner and leaned into her strength when needed. I had practiced gratitude throughout the day and celebrated each milestone we passed on the way out and back. I felt I had given all I had to this journey and gotten so much more in return. A life changing experience for me that will take some time to digest, I suspect.
Then the tears. I folded over the railing. Exhausted. Emotionally, physically. Relieved.
I cannot thank @ashley.goodman for asking me if I wanted to take on this challenge with her. It had been a decade since we last ran together and it seems like we never stopped. Her fortitude and grit helped me when I needed it most. As did her laughing and song lyrics! Thanks to Gavin, my coach @peaktopeakendurance for making sure I am prepared for my adventures and always being the calm one. To my partner, John E for supporting my adventures and letting me spread my wings. To my @Trail_Sisters_Boulder and larger @TrailSisters community for their unwavering support and miles of smiles that we share each week that I carry on every adventure. To @lady_ak47_ and Miss November as this would not have been the same without you!
Stats according to my Garmin:
Moving time: 15:22
Total time: 16:30
Distance: 46.17 miles
Elevation Change: 22,681
Starting Temp: 32
Highest Temp: 102
#hydrapak
#doepicshit
#radboulder
#smartwool
#lasportiva
#salomonrunning
